The Fashion Crown

Have you ever thought how our clothes will be in ten years? I might have the answer. “Clothes change our view of the world and the world's view of us”. The fashion world in the days of Virginia Woolf, and now, is a reflection of what we are living.

I just arrived from the Cibeles catwalk in Madrid, and even though it was amazing and incredible seeing the exotic designs by Andrés Sarda, the classic ones by Amaya Arzuga the models walking in the middle of the gangway wearing the colourful clothes of , Agatha Ruiz de la Prada or the elegant designs by Ángel Schlesser, I haven’t seen any innovation that surprised me. I strongly believe that we need a enormous shift in fashion’s world. Everything is being too classical or minimalist, in other words, the trends that started with Cristobal Balenciaga’s or Alexander Mcqueen, the 21th century designer revolutionary, are the ones right now. I recently visited the Spanish designer museum in Bilbao, I enjoyed all his designs and dresses and thought how classic, simple and beautiful where then I realized it was awesome because he had been the first one to do that kind of creations. The same happened with Alexander McQueen, despite the fact that his designs weren’t so much popular while he was alive, he was an authentic revolution of fashion, triggering to create a new style that is still alive. His ideals of fashion are between us every day with the black colours, the feathers and the exotic complements. All of this is proved in London's exhibition about him, the best one I have ever seen. 

In spite of the sameness of nowadays trends with the ones from years ago, I believe fashion will be different in next few years, I think the next thing will happen is that designers of the future will mix technology with art. I expect some big changes. Maybe a wonderful white dress with an incorporated computer screens that shows some spectacular pictures as prints. Some designers have already started researching in this new fashion technology world, for instance, The Studio XO, who have designed some dresses for Lady Gaga or Black eyed peas. When Lady Gaga appeared with her extravagant dress at the Itunes awards in 2010 and in some other events with this type of different clothes It made on us a shock, because it was something new. I really thing this is the future because when someone innovates at first we might be surprised but then we want to wear it. In Japan, for example, the people have already started to wear t-shirts or sneakers with LEDS.

However, it will be in some years on, while we are researching for the big change that will make us wear the new technological style. Are you ready for that? Perhaps now you are skeptical about the idea, but it is normal because we're at just at the beginning of something completely new.

Balenciaga's design 

A design by Alexander Mcqueen

Studio XO

Trainers with LEDS

What does summer really mean? According to the Cambridge Dictionary it is the season of the year between spring and autumn when the weather is warmest blah blah blah. It is more than that and to make sure that I wasn’t the only one who thinks that summer is listening to good new songs or watching the sunset, I asked my friends to describe it with just one word, and this little experiment confirmed that I wasn’t the only weird one. 

For some of them, the crazy ones, summer is enjoyment, exciting, the moment of jumping off a cliff into the water and feeling the water crashing into your face, a time when their feelings are willing to live new experiences, make new friends, and do things that even they wouldn’t think were possible – that is their time of freedom. When exams are over and the ‘’true life’’ starts. For others it is a period of time to relax, to reflect, to go somewhere peaceful with the family or alone, taking time for themselves with a cup of coffee, while they are sitting in a wooden chair, in the sand, and hearing the soft wind and the rhythm of the waves. Perfect, isn’t it? By the way, the thing that both of them have in common are the evenings, and no one can tell me that is not true. The best part of almost every summer story happens at night where parties, late dinners, sweet laughter, and chill out or loud music are the best accessories. Natural make-up, long dresses, the right roman sandals with exaggerated tie-ups will be the only things you will need for these suppers and the long talks with your friends. Nevertheless, if you are the ones that want to dance till the sun comes up you will probably need flattering high-waisted black shorts, a shiny crop top, and platform summer shoes to complete your outfit and make it amazing. In both outfits you can add a tiny leather bag with an animal print detail or a flower headband like the Ibiza ones, but never together; two different prints such as daisies with leopard can never go together! 

With all this I want to say to you to enjoy the summer and don’t let the problems get you down, because it is just three months out of twelve and soon it will be over, so turn the music up, socialize with everybody, and don’t forget to laugh all the time. 

Hi everyone, I hope you are having a great summer!

In the last couple of months I have met lots of girls who want to work in the fashion world, but they don't really know in which field they would like to specialise, like some of you. I realized that the main problem is most of you don't have any idea about  which  are the main jobs in this discipline. This is the reason why today I'm presenting to you an interview with one of the Telva magazine staff. One of the best-selling magazines every month in Spain. She will talk about how the magazine works and what she does there, as you will see she has an unusual job, she has to combine fashion, photography and journalism. In my mind her work is amazing and really exciting.

In the following text you will be able to read the interview and see how the magazine looks.

I know that you work as a journalist in the department of archives and documentation in Telva, one of the best fashion magazines in Spain. But, most of us really don’t know what your job is about. Could you explain what it consists of?

I document all the published photos in the magazine, besides I work as a graphic editor in the research of the pictures for all the issues of the print magazine. I find it in the files of Telva and sometimes in photo agencies.  

What section of the magazine requires you the most?

No one in particular, it depends on the type of the report. Sometimes I just need to take images from the agencies. Moreover when more detail is required or newer images, I need to do a more in-depth search, with the exception of one agency that searches for me and then gives me what they have sourced. In the case of Beauty, I don’t need to look at external sources, I can find it in-house. In Telva as much care is taken on the visual aspect as the written aspect. 

How is it working in one of the most coveted fashion magazines in Spain?

As I said to my previous boss the day that she interviewed me, “Working for Telva is like winning the lottery”, and now I’m still thinking that. It's not just that I love my job, it's also the great atmosphere that you can sense.

How many people are needed to produce one magazine like Telva? 

At the office we are 40 employees, between writers, web designers, stylists, typesetters... Furthermore we need the help of set-decorators and photographers, who are a part of the magazine and also freelance. 

How do you decide which topics you are going to include in the next issue? 

Each director of each section collects ideas and then they have to explain it to the Sub-Editor, finally the last step is the Editor in Chief who says if it is ok. A few times we have meetings to plan long-term projects. For instance, the Sub-Editor meets with all the fashion team and organizes what we are going to do during the season. 

What are the criteria for choosing the covers?

It's simple, a beautiful girl who stands-out on the newsstand and brings a fashion message. It is chosen from within the production shoots of each month, sometimes the cover is made  with the agreement of one fashion brand or with the celebrity’s manager.

What do you do if something goes wrong or you run out of something? Do you have a plan B? 

We have to improvise, we need to have “fridge topics”. But sometimes it is complicated. When it happens, we select which advertisements need extra support, and we make a new subject-matter. But we are used to it. 

How do you decide what the models are going to wear in the shoots? 

Firstly, we define the topic and the trend, such as the 70’s. After that we select some of the looks that we like the most and have seen on the catwalk, and fits perfectly with the topic. Also we go shopping at the showrooms and at the boutiques of the brands that support us. With all these clothes we do a fitting and then we decide which are best for the model.  Finally we try it on her and we make changes if it is necessary. 

Is the magazine aimed at a specific audience?

Women aged 25 to 45, high class or medium-high class. 

What profile does the magazine look for when it is looking for new staff?

The key is to find someone who loves fashion and has the aim and the capacity to do the job. The person should be informed of everything and be aware of what is going on around her/him. 

Could you tell me how you managed to get this job, and what you studied?

The truth is that I studied Art and Marketing, nothing related with my job, but obviously I have a sense of style and I love photography, but the most important thing is that what they were looking for, was to find someone resourceful.

And the last question of the interview, what advice would you give to someone who wants to work in a fashion magazine? 

Don’t refuse any opportunity, I’ve been here for 10 years and every person who has come should demonstrate her/his value and interest. Accept every job that someone offers you, and try to find a job while you are studying related with fashion and show your capacity. 

Sé que trabajas en el departamento de archivo y documentación en Telva ¿En qué consiste tu trabajo? 

En documentar todas las fotos publicadas en la revista y al mismo tiempo actúo como editora gráfica en la búsqueda de imágenes para los diferentes números de la edición impresa de la revista. Utilizo tanto fotos del archivo del Telva como de diferentes agencias fotográficas.

¿Qué sección de la revista te requiere más?  

Ninguna en especial, depende del tipo de reportaje, para algunos sólo necesito imágenes de agencia, por la actualidad que requieren y las búsquedas excepto en Getty me las hacen ellos mismos y me mandan su selección, y otras como por ejemplo de belleza las busco en nuestras propias producciones. En Telva se cuida muchísimo la parte visual, tanto como la redaccional.

¿Cómo es trabajar en una de las revistas de moda más cotizada en España?

Como dije a nuestra anterior directora el día que me hizo la entrevista, “Trabajar en Telva sería como si me hubiera tocado la lotería” y lo sigo pensando. No sólo trabajo en algo que me encanta, sino que el nivel humano de la redacción es excepcional.

¿Cuántas personas se necesitan para sacar adelante una revista como Telva? 

En plantilla somos unas 40 personas entre redactoras, diseñadoras web, estilistas, maquetadoras. Además tenemos a los fotógrafos que ninguno esta en plantilla y son freelance y otras colaboraciones más para redacción, decoración o estilismo.

¿Cómo son las reuniones de trabajo para decidir qué temas se van a editar en el siguiente número, y en que os basáis? 

Cada redactor jefe recopila ideas y se comentan con la subdirectora y la directora para dar el ok. Puntualmente hacemos reuniones todo el equipo para plantear temas a largo plazo. Maite por ejemplo se  reúne con el equipo de moda cada temporada para planificar los temas de moda y entrevistas que haremos a lo largo de la temporada.

¿Qué criterios sigue la revista para escoger la portada?

Chica guapa que resalte en quiosco y lleve un mensaje de moda. Se elige dentro de las producciones del mes, otras veces la portada se acuerda con una firma de moda o con el agente de la celebrity.

¿Si falla algún reportaje o entrevista, tenéis algún plan B, o que hacéis? 

Hay que intentar tener temas “de nevera”. Pero a veces es complicado. Cuando nos pasa eso, improvisamos y pensamos en qué anunciante puede necesitar un apoyo extra y montamos un tema. Estamos muy acostumbradas a eso.

¿Cómo decidís la ropa que llevarán las modelos en las sesiones de fotos? 

Lo primero es definir el tema que quieres hacer, la tendencia, por ejemplo: los años 70. Luego hacer una selección de los looks de pasarela que más te gustan y se ajustan a esa estética, también haces un shopping por los showrooms y también por las marcas que nos apoyan. Con todas estas prendas haces un fitting simulado y decides los conjuntos que más pueden favorecer a la modelo y por último al ponérselos puedes hacer cambios según vayan quedando a la modelo, el estilo de fotos, etc…

¿La revista está dirigida a un público en concreto? 

Mujer, 25-45 años, clase alta, media-alta

¿Qué perfil busca la revista a la hora de contratar nuevo personal? 

La clave está en una persona resolutiva que ame la moda y que tenga curiosidad e ilusión por el trabajo. Es muy importante que la persona sea ágil y esté informada de todo lo que pasa en el sector.

Podrías contarme como llegaste a este puesto, y que estudios te han hecho falta.

Yo realmente he estudiado Bellas Artes y Marketing, nada de documentación, pero evidentemente tengo sentido estético y me gusta mucho la fotografía, y sobre todo lo que estaban buscando era alguien que además fuera resolutivo.

Por último, ¿Qué consejo darías a alguien que como yo, cuyo sueño es acceder a este mundo en el que tú trabajas?

Lo que te dijo Maite, toma buena nota de ello, en los 10 años que llevo en la redacción todas las personas que han demostrado su valía y su interés se han hecho un hueco en la redacción. Acepta todos los trabajos que puedas mientras estés estudiando relacionados con la moda y demuestra que vales para esto.

The beautiful weather, chic styles and celebrity guest list made it perfect. This year, as usual, a lot of famous people went to the Indio's town to celebrate one of the most amazing shows. Over the years more trending artists have decided to join in, their presence has had two different impacts; in one hand too many young people want to go and see this famous people. On the other hand the true essence of the festival is getting lost.

''At the beginning of the 90's a simple pair of jeans was as dressy as a night outfit. It's about giving an identity to the garment, wearing it so that it makes you unique'' - Borja Bas.

The simplicity of the 90's created a new tendency. "Less is more'' was the rule, and as we know a fashion-style never really disappears, it always comes back. Basics became essential in the closet and every single person wanted to create their own trend. The success of musical groups like Nirvana, TV shows like Friends, as well as the importance of brands, all designed the 90's. The grunge style found its popularity on the streets, and the minimalism of Calvin Klein's art also became the centre of attention on the catwalks. 

So if we think we are wearing a new style of clothes, we are very wrong. The celebrities from the past were the first people wearing them.  

La simplicidad de los años 90 marcó una nueva tendencia en el mundo de la moda. El ''menos es más'' es lo que se llevaba. Y, como dice la norma no escrita sobre las modas, todas vuelven. Los básicos se volvieron imprescindibles en el armario y se creo un afán muy grande por marcar una tendencia única. El triunfo de grupos musicales como Nirvana; series de éxito como Friends o incluso, la imposición de las marcas, dibujaron la moda de los 90. El grunge invadió las calles y se convirtió en algo más que una forma de vestir. El minimalismo de la mano de Calvin Klein también marcó la moda en los años 90. 

Sin embargo muchas de las tendencias que regresan como los ''mom jeans'' o las prendas ''oversize'' lo hacen con un punto renovador; los mom jeans, por ejemplo, han pasado a ser los boyfriend y las prendas oversize ya no son tan simples como las de antes. 

Estas prendas que todas llevamos ahora, a pesar de que ya fueron diseñadas hace más de 20 años, son: los 'crop tops' camisetas cortas con el propósito de enseñar el ombligo, las camisas de cuadros, las ''zapatillas creepers'' zapatos con plataforma... 

Así que si pensábamos que lo que llevamos es algo nuevo de ahora, estamos muy equivocadas. Las famosas que dominaban el mundo en ese momento eran las que lo instalaron y lo pusieron de moda.

Model: Virginia Roldán Carrera

T-shirt/coat: Zara

Jeans: Brandy Malville

Platform shoes: Un paso más 

1. Comenzó a trabajar como sastre en los grandes almacenes de Au Louvre de San Sebastián, y en solo dos años fue nombrado jefe de taller de confecciones para mujeres.

2. Junto con las hermanas Lizaso, crea ''Balenciaga y Compañía'' que se mantiene durante seis años. Más tarde el decidé separarse y formar su propia firma bajo su nombre; Cristóbal Balenciaga.

3. Muchas de sus primeras clientes eran mujeres de la realeza y la corte española.

4. Con el estallo de la Segunda República decide exiliarse a Paris y cerrar las tiendas temporalmente que había abierto en San Sebastian, Madrid y Barcelona.

5. En 1937 se presentó con éxito su primera colección de alta costura en París.

6. El modisto presentó por primera vez los sacos de vestir en sus colecciones - un paso más en las revoluciones de sastrería que comenzaron con su línea de barril en 1947. Sus creaciones con líneas puras y fluidas siguen revolucionando la moda de la época.

7. Una famosa frase de Balenciaga fue: "Las mujeres deben caminar de forma natural y no sentirse inseguras en sus pasos"

8. Siempre se mantuvo fiel a sus propuestas;  tacones bajos, falda por debajo de la rodilla y mangas tres cuartos.

9. Sus obras han sido parte de las colecciones más prestigiosas han sido expuestas en museos de todo el mundo, desde el Museo Metropolitano de Nueva York, a la Fundación Moda de Tokio y el Museo de tela Lyon.

10. Murió el 24 de marzo del 1972 en Javea, Alicante